Day 22: Lake Como to Zurich via the Bernina Express

The day dawned grey and misty. I went to see the vet at 8:30 and collected a few more stamps and signatures on Lottie’s passport. Hopefully it should satisfy the border guards now, though I’ll have to go to an Italian ASL (health authority office) on my next trip to get a new blank one.

After that I had breakfast at the hotel and sauntered down to the train station via an upmarket pet shop where I’d been hoping to stock up on dog food. Unfortunately (for Lottie) it was closed on Mondays.

I was in time to catch an earlier train to Tirano, the town on the Swiss border where the Bernina Express departs. Once in Tirano, I hung around in the station car for a while before entering the hallowed halls of the customs office.

Customs office and gateway to the Bernina Express in Tirano

Once inside, my appetite was whetted by a first glimpse of the familiar dinky red Rhaetian Railway trains that glide up to 2300 m and back down the other side via an amazing selection of bridges, viaducts and tunnels.

Rhaetian Railway trains run on a different network to the Italian Ferrovia Statale

This engineering feat has earned a UNESCO heritage site listing. Even more impressive is the fact that much of the work was done over a hundred years ago using methods that were very primitive by today’s standards.

The train set off on the dot at 14.24. This was third time I’d done the trip but the first from Italy to Switzerland. I ordered a Prosecco and sat back to enjoy the amazing scenery until the train arrived in Chur three and a half hours later.

The earlier mist and clouds had melted away to leave blue skies and sparkling snow.

We didn’t get off at the highest point (a glacier) as in the past, but the guard served tea and chocolates, which was nearly as good.

I’ve become a connoisseur of station design on this trip and Chur station is one of the very best I’ve been to. It has ramps as well as stairs, which are much easier to navigate and give the place a more open feeling with attractive angles.

Smart station planning in Chur

At this point, I realised with a sinking feeling that in my haste to get Lottie’s passport sorted I’d left my Kindle under my pillow in Colico.

I arrived in Zurich at about 8 pm, just as the Migros supermarket near my hotel was closing, so had to eke out Lottie’s remaining food.

The Montana hotel near the station is the best hotel I’ve stayed in on this trip but by far from being the most expensive. This has been my third visit and I’ve always been reluctant to leave the beautiful bed linen and duvets for another early train.

Day 21: Colico, Lake Como

I stayed at a family-run lake-side hotel I’ve been to before.

My hotel is the first building on the right

The alpine landscape couldn’t be more of a contrast to the prickly pears and palms of Lecce.

Fellow translator Liz popped over from Milan for the day and we had a lovely time drinking scenic spritzes, having a delicious Sunday lunch and even quite a long walk.

Starter of freshwater lake fish and polenta

We spotted someone doing a bit of falconry.

Falcon or hawk?

The mixture of alpine landscape and Italian-flavoured lakeside never fails to please.

Another lakeside view

I awoke after a nightmare that something wasn’t quite right with Lottie’s passport and pulled it out for closer examination this morning.

Sure enough, the vet in Lecce had initialled but not stamped the box to say she’d been wormed and failed altogether to fill in the box to say that he’d examined her and she was healthy (though I have got away with that one before).

I tracked down the local vet and WhatsApped him. Luckily he got back to me pretty quickly to say he’ll see Lottie tomorrow morning.

Day 20: Lecce to Lake Como

Enjoyed four nights in Lecce, but it was all too quick and the weather took a turn for the worse. My little apartment was nice and snug but it was a bit chilly for strolling round outside.

Facade of Santa Croce
Sub-Banksie graffiti

I managed to get all the important things done, like getting Lottie’s rabies booster jab and updating her Italian pet passport.

Yesterday, I did my 2-hour talk at the university and then had to race back to the apartment to translate the day’s report on a FAO meeting in Quito. The committee session kept me busy all the time I was in Lecce, but it was fun being part of the translating team and tag-translating with one of the other translators/interpreters who was in Quito for the week.

Last night I had a nostalgic dinner with David, Patti Jan and Wenche, who’ve just sold the masseria where I normally stay every summer. It’s the end of an era.

Last dinner in Lecce

This morning I got up early and stocked up on supplies for the day-long journey to Milan and Lake Como. In typical Pugliese style, the station bar had better homemade cakes and panini than any other station bar I’ve ever visited.

Typical pasticciotti from Lecce

My train carriage on the Freccia Rossa was practically empty until Rimini. It was no hardship at all to sit back and watch the scenery go by.

Watching the sea go by

I’m in an Area Silenzio carriage, but in my experience people actively seek out these carriages to have very loud, prolonged phone conversations. It’s a bit annoying when you’re trying to read your Kindle.

Olive groves through the opposite window

Today’s trip is longer than most of the others I’ve done, but I should be at Lake Como In time for dinner

Lecce-Milan is marked with a solid blue line

Day 16: Rome to Lecce

Yesterday was a day for believing at least six impossible things before breakfast.

The White Queen told Alice that when she was a child she practised until she could believe at least six impossible things before breakfast

I was up early to take Lottie for a quick run round the block. Stazione Termini seems very familiar. It may have a Victoria Secrets shop now, but the layout is essentially same as when I lived nearby in a pensione in Via Cavour for a few months when I was 22.

Then it was a taxi to the notary’s office across Rome near Ponte Milvio. I got there early enough to enjoy this view of the bridge.

Ponte Milvio

The deed was read to all parties and signed. Disappointingly, no parrots or other exotic creatures were involved this time.

After that, I just had time to dash back across Rome in an Uber, pick up Lottie and catch the train to Lecce via Bari.

I definitely had a great sense of relief. But it was slightly marred by bickering with my buyer on WhatsApp for the whole trip because I’d taken down pictures and left hooks in the walls. Extraordinary. His attitude was less like a buyer to a vendor and more like a landlord to a tenant. I think he’d secretly been hoping that I wouldn’t have time to remove everything in a week. Luckily the neighbours saw to it that I did!

Lecce, hundreds of kilometres south in the heel of Italy, is as pristine white as ever.

Lecce: all white and immaculately clean

I got to Lecce at the perfect time to meet David after work and have a celebratory drink. Lottie wasn’t impressed.

Day 15: Capena-Rome

The contract signing at the notary’s tomorrow has been shifted to an earlier time so I decided to play safe and spend the night in Rome.

The house is totally empty except for the kitchen appliances and five sofas. Everything else now has a new home. I’m really proud to say that absolutely nothing went to Capena’s recycling centre or had to be dumped or otherwise disposed of.

This morning I had the final meeting with the buyers and estate agent for a bit of horse-trading before the official signing tomorrow. In a fittingly piratical spirit, the buyers brought their parrot.

Two of Casa Galilei’s new residents
Ambra the estate agent took it in her stride
Last look out over the valley from Casa Galilei
Strolled to Monti for dinner