We checked out of the hotel on Lake Como at 10 am after a leisurely breakfast and then spent a couple of hours making like the locals, i.e. sitting on a shady bench by the lake and watching the world go by.
Once we finally dragged ourselves away and set off at noon, the drive from Como to Zola Predosa near Bologna took about 4.5 hours. At least an hour of that was spent gridlocked on the motorway between Milan and Bologna watching the temperature gauge steadily climb to 40C. Luckily the car has good AC.

We ran from the cool car into Agriturismo Gaggioli, got settled into our rooms and snoozed until dinner – apart from a brief foray with Lottie into the baking heat before dinner. Everything looks and feels very different to my trip to the winery in November last year.
The restaurant was closed then and the owner rustled up a simple plate of cheese and ham. I was expecting something similar this time, so it came as a big surprise to be offered a fine dining experience. I should never have expected anything less in Italy’s foody heartland I suppose.

It was also great to drink the wines in the spot they were produced – a real zero kilometre experience.

The next morning I got up early for a walk before it got too hot. The hedgerows are limbering up for an late summer bonanza.


